The Resort 2014 collections have been underway since early May. But for some odd reason, they haven’t generated the same amount of traction the spring/summer and fall collections usually do, perhaps because they are considered extraneous. This is unfortunate because the shows that don’t necessarily follow any particular season, display some profoundly stimulating designs that fall in the perfect space between couture and ready-to-wear (RTW). Here’s a quick wrap up of the labels that wowed us especially from the lot.
Oscar de la Renta Resort 2014
Oscar de la Renta characteristically showed off his finesse with lace and bead detailing but he put a spin on his usual delicate style with colourful florals imposed onto grey tartan pantsuits and peplum waists. The result was brilliantly becoming a marriage between office grey and blood red. The doily lace skirt suits, with flared out tops and bubble dresses, all denoted a positive vibe and the matching printed shoes were a tempting trend albeit hard to implement.
Gucci Resort 2014
Gucci turned to disco glam, taking metallic and shiny fabrics to create baggy jumpsuits that was also a common thread between other collections showcased for Resort Wear. The focus has shifted to a somewhat sports luxe feel to the clothes. Everything was baggy including the print-on-print extreme high-waisted trousers. A sheer chiffon printed jumpsuit with a knotted tie in front, looked like it used to be a dress but had recently been given legs. It was a bit of quirky fun to break free of limitations.
Michael Kors Resort 2014
Michael Kors made a comeback to bold and logical colour blocking with basic black and earth tones. The blocks were severe and restricted to neutrals. We are fond of the striking nature of his design philosophy and the juxtaposition of solids that followed print in the same colour palette was an interesting feature of the theme-based collection.
Burberry Prorsum Resort 2014
Burberry continued to draw on lace but rather than using sheath dresses and trench coats shown at their RTW 2013 collection, the label tried to infuse a sporty element to the fabric by adding a stretch texture and pairing them as pencil skirts with a casual knit top and peep-toe booties. The designs in the spandex lace were an intricate feature and the statement bow tie backs of the dresses and tops, a cute touch.
Donna Karan Resort 2014
Donna Karan’s pieces flowed like poetry in motion and the common feature was a downward pointed yet soft natural silhouette that seemed to find its own path. A few of the pieces resembled the sari drape while the round gold sequins in others, gave the form a beautiful ethnic feel that floored us instantly. The basic polka and striped sarong skirt was another feature we loved and it reminded us of the ‘lacha’ traditional Punjabi silhouette used by Sania Maskatiya in her Ahghaaz Collection showcase at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) 2013. From that, Donna Karan switched to an angular monochrome striped dress with net inserts which was cut like a dream.
Christian Dior Resort 2014
Dior ran with the simple concept of neon electric solids starkly contrasted with airy pastels and sheers and turned it into a work of art. There was something so distinctively pleasing to the eye about the ‘opposites attract’ version of colours playing into the separates; it proved that the best ideas are really under your nose the whole time. Rather than harmony, this was more of a chaotic effect as feminine lace was fought by sporty, loud, and rigid streaks that had pushed their way in but the finished product worked seamlessly.
BCBG Resort 2014, Tory Burch Resort 2014
Apart from ODLR, floral fury was epically romanticised by BCBG and Tory Burch. BCBG’s take involved pristine white silhouettes laced with composed flower prints. The biker jacket with a studded collar, was ingeniously softened with the floral pattern sleeves to displace the harshness with more feminine day time elements. Tory Burch went a little bit brighter and more in tune with the Boho feel that can be traced to her aesthetic. We especially love the chinoiserie-feel to the cropped trousers once again displaying print-on-print.
Chanel Resort 2014
Karl Lagerfeld opted for a mash-up of concepts for Chanel Resort wear, fitting punk hair and make-up with generous ladylike pearls instead of metal, and to top it off, cricket sweater vests. Heavy thick eye liner and spiked hair met ’50s wide-legged trousers and pencil skirts. It was a fun and liberating collective touching on a bit of everything as a woman on vacation would, and putting an interesting spin on it.
Do you think Pakistan is ready to add Resort Wear to our list of fashion weeks yet? Maybe not, but presenting to a select group of critics and buyers on a small scale, the way these Resort Collections were shown, might be an interesting idea to point the industry in the right direction.
Published in The Express Tribune, June 8th, 2013.
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