The right accessory can make an outfit, and an exquisite piece of statement jewellery can lend one a great deal of confidence. GOLD by Reama Malik was introduced back in 1987, with the aim to do just that. By blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs, Malik has quickly made a name for herself as a bespoke jewellery designer in Lahore.
“Back in the ‘70s, jewellery used to be one-of-a-kind, because it was all hand-made,” says Malik. “However, during the ’80s and ’90s, electronic machines came into the picture and [the availability of] hand-made jewellery diminished.” Malik observed this trend in the industry, and decided to revive a dying art by providing custom hand-made jewellery to discerning customers.
“We work very differently,” reveals Malik. “Our local craftsmen are so talented they can produce anything. Most stores use casting machines now, but I find this technique to be more effective. It also keeps my work exclusive.”
The design process isn’t an easy one. After a mental visualisation of the piece, the naqshakar (craftsman) draws the design on a piece of paper, which is then traced onto a patra (flat sheet of gold). After that, a mould is made for the design. The raw piece is polished and buffed and sent to setters to be fitted with gem stones. Finally, the piece is lacquered. “Each single piece easily goes through six or seven professional hands before the end product is achieved. Therefore, the price is high,” says Malik.
Clients are often more than happy to pay the premium for something so unique and intricate, according to Malik. She shares that brides-to-be often have a certain design in mind, but don’t really have the expertise to have it recreated, and also fail to find something similar in the market at times. This is where Malik steps in. She designs jewellery from scratch, according to the client’s budget and aesthetical requirements.
Although Malik can work with a diverse spectrum of stones and metals, she feels that a traditional bride looks best in gold. Hence, she is striving to highlight it as the main statement accessory. “Gold will always be an investment, because the price increases overtime. However, in case of diamonds, you will always lose money,” she asserts.
Fitting in well with emerging trends, Malik specialises in polki. In fact, she is one rare few in Pakistan who produces polki accessories from scratch. “Mostly polki is imported from India and then set here,” says Malik. “But here we make our own polki.” Malik is also known for designing nauratan, gold coin and kundan jewellery with a modern twist.
Harmonising time-honoured Eastern sensibilities with Western aesthetics, her timeless designs were a highlight at Kamiar Rokni’s bridal showcase at PFDC L’oreal Paris Bridal Week this year. As much as she loves to stay true to her roots, she is also well aware of forthcoming trends. “Internationally, yellow-gold is coming back, and this season you will definitely see more brides wearing gold,” she emphasises. It appears that bridal jewellery trends are taking a turn towards the traditional, leaving Malik perfectly primed to cater to the increasing demand.
Published in The Express Tribune, November 21st, 2013.
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