Shamaeel Ansari’s design ethos has always been entrenched in rich inspirations – Grecian drapes tussle with Japanese kimonos, hemlines rise and fall in silken folds, vibrant Polynesian flowers mingle with Chughtai art, ethnic embroideries and detailed miniatures in a glorious royal colour palette. The designer’s penchant for glamour is apparent in her in her own wardrobe. Her home, where I meet her, mirrors her love for luxury. Ornate wooden carvings sit alongside painted showpieces, unique glassware, framed mirrors and gorgeous turquoise curtains printed with miniscule Mughal scenes.
High-end luxe defines Shamaeel – in her tastes for interiors, her lifestyle and of course, her design acumen. As she dips her toes ever so slightly into mass retail, her distinctive signature style has just gotten a tad affordable.
Shamaeel’s just-launched Tughra line, literally meaning royal seal, features apparel and accessories that cater to her younger clientele. “I have observed that a lot of young women like to buy separates at our exhibitions,” explains the designer. “This line is specifically aimed towards them, with price points that are more manageable for their budgets.”
Is this Shamaeel’s way of expanding her customer-base by offering affordable prêt? “Only to some extent,” she says. Tughra may be less elaborate than her luxury-prêt but it still has the Shamaeel signature. The fabric prints, embroideries and trimmings are all created in-house.
“We’ve tried to keep prices low – bags, scarves and pants may cost under Rs5,000 – but even then our apparel ranges from above Rs5,000 to below Rs25,000. These are hardly the rates offered by retail stores, but we prefer to maintain our quintessential look, even if that means higher prices!”
Wouldn’t she rather dictate trends by aiming for the mass market, a la Sana Safinaz and Khaadi, with prêt priced well below Rs10,000? “Trends tend to filter from high-end design houses down to mass-retail,” points out Shamaeel. “Gucci and Topshop often sell similar designs but a Gucci will always stand out for the quality, originality and brand-image it wields. Topshop may earn a lot through sales, but Gucci may just earn a lot more by selling a limited quantity which emulates its brand philosophy.”
This, then, is Shamaeel’s business philosophy. Gucci would never want to be Topshop – and the Shamaeel Ansari niche is not interested in forsaking design and quality control for the sake of mass-retail. As the former chairperson of the nascent Fashion Pakistan Council, who reputedly put the organisation’s finances back into order, Shamaeel has a flair for business and she knows exactly which way she’d like to spin her design house.
There is, for instance, a standalone store planned out for the near future but it’s going to be a very exclusive ‘House of Shamaeel’ rather than a retail chain with multiple branches. Tughra is just a peep into what lies ahead.
Price-wise, Tughra may not be for everybody, but the collection is gorgeous enough to make one want to extend their sartorial budget just a bit further. The debut line, inspired by Iznik tile crafts and Central Asian tapestry art, traverses myriad silhouettes: angarkhas in soft chamois, silken kimono-style shirts, standout waistcoats and long coats and quirky bubble hems. Then there are the detailings; pockets, belts, velvet linings and bubble sleeves, with a range of scarves and handbags available to complement the look. It all comes together to create a distinctive look that will make you stop in your tracks and exclaim, ‘That’s a Shamaeel!’
“I’ve always stayed true to my inspirations which is why my designs, the limited bridals I create, the luxury-prêt or even the relatively less elaborate Tughra, are instantly recognizable,” says Shamaeel. “There are so many tiny elements that come together to create a Shamaeel outfit. It’s made me an extremely difficult designer to copy!”
This is what made Shamaeel’s old friend and client, acclaimed Indian author Shobhaa De, publicly exclaim ‘I want!’ on Facebook just a few months ago, on seeing images of the latest exhibit. Shamaeel’s regular clientele are women who dare to be different, and have the means to do so. It is what makes her exhibits, regularly held three times a year and extending from Lahore and Karachi on to Dubai and India, such huge successes.
The recent exhibit held just a few weeks ago in Lahore is a case in point. “Tughra sold out there,” says Shamaeel, “So I have big hopes for Karachi.” The Karachi private viewing is scheduled for the end of December, and by early February, the line will regularly be stocked at mainstream multi-label stores across the country and abroad, with new collections filtering in every two months.
Published in The Experss Tribune, December 23rd, 2013.
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