Earlier when you drove through block 4 in Clifton’s KDA scheme, it appeared more or less to be a refined version of an electronics and hardware market. However, as time progressed, innovative entrepreneurs discovered better opportunities in its secluded lanes, tucked away from surrounding commercialisation, and transformed it into a posh locale offering an array of fine dining experiences to discerning foodies.
Saturday night, this evolving gastronomic street witnessed the launch of yet another restaurant, Estrela by Orrery. With the likes of Wasim Akram, Aamir Liaquat and Saima Azhar munching on its pre-set, complimentary delicacies, the launch was surely a glitzy affair. However, with the guest list exceeding the number of seats available, many seemed to be sauntering about the area aimlessly.
For a few aware diners that are well-informed about the world’s top restaurants, the name Orrery instantly brings to mind one of London Marleyborne’s four-Michelin star French restaurant by the same name. Even if the name is considered a sheer coincidence, the identical concept of having three different eateries in one place propels one to believe that local Orrery is a part of the continuing invasion of international franchises — but that’s not the case.
“No, it’s not the same. It’s my own local name and is based on the ancient solar machine called Orrery,” clarifies owner Mehr e Azam. “Restaurants all across Pakistan are somewhat similar in set up and the cuisines they offer. However, we wanted to do something different both in terms of the menu and structure. Unlike our competition, we are operating three different restaurants under one roof, each of which is targeting a different age group.”
While Orrery’s conceptualisation is surely atypical, it is not really one-of-a-kind. In fact, Club Genova, which opened its doors to urban Karachiites last year, was the original pioneer of the three-in-one eatery idea. Nevertheless, Orrery makes quite an impression by offering its customers a unique and refreshing atmosphere.
Built on three stories, the ground floor is house to an intimate and stylish fine-dining space that specialises in French cuisine. The giant mechanical structure at the entrance, past a small open-air garden area, reinforces the restaurant’s inspiration and the built-in fountains have a calming effect on the diners. The middle level is a café and cigar lounge called Café Ocoa. With big plasma screens, comfy leather couches, wooden flooring and a bar in one corner, the small private space gives off a ‘men-only sports bar’ vibe, rather like a posh bachelor pad. Finally, on the top floor, is a creative and naturalistic terrace, O’ Grill, decorated with contemporary straw couches, Oakwood flooring and fresh green plants — definitely an ideal spot to have a relaxing night out with friends and family.
In terms of the venue, Orrery lives up to the charm. However, what it promises in ambiance, it loses out in taste. The night’s offering included a four-course meal, starting with what is often classified as a safe option (but definitely isn’t, in this case), the Smoked Tomato Soup. Runny in texture, with clearly evident oil bubbles in the broth, the soup left a bland taste in one’s mouth. Next up was the Crevettes Salad — a cold shrimp dish served on a bed of iceberg lettuce, beetroot and thinly sliced carrots with a drizzle of salad dressing on top. While the shrimp was fresh and the salad had the required crunch, the sour taste of the sauce did not compliment the starter.
The main course of Pollo Mandarino was undoubtedly the stand out. The tenderness of the sliced chicken breast was perfectly matched by the not-so-overpowering tangy flavour of citrus orange. It was a fresh, unique and delightful addition to the menu and its lightness left one wanting for more. Served with seasoned baked potatoes and a selection of veggies, this dish is a must-try. Unfortunately, the impeccable main course was followed by a disastrous dessert, and for somebody who was born with a sweet tooth, it was shameful. The stylishly named profiteroles, did not offer any benefit to those munching on them. Whether those floury discs were mini sponge cakes or truffles, was uncertain. They lacked texture, softness and above all taste, and were a struggle for those trying to break them apart to eat them. Surprisingly, the ones with caramel dressing stood over the chocolate ones, which had a rather bitter taste to it.
While we are all up for not letting the first impression be the last, considering the dishes have had been pre-prepared to serve an extensive list of guests, Orrery surely needs to buck up in the food department if it wants to match up to the rest of its strong competition. As our final verdict, Orrey is a picture-perfect example of an ideal escape from the hustle and bustle of the city of lights. However, if it wants to develop a loyal base of excited customers, the inventive menu needs to deliver in taste.
Published in The Express Tribune, January 13th, 2014.
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