There are two things which unite all the different ethnicities and classes in Pakistan, cricket and more importantly, food. We may be different on many grounds, but this is one place where we all meet – to eat. Be it a chai ka dhaaba or a posh restaurant, if it is within city limits, it has been visited by the dwellers of that specific city.
We are a nation that loves to both eat and feed others. Guests are treated with utmost respect and the ever-present chai trolley and meal, whenever and wherever possible.
Shanaz Ramzi in her talk on ‘Celebrating Pluralism through Local Cuisine’ said that “In order to understand any culture or nation, one needs to see or rather, taste the various flavours of their respective food. The diversity in local Pakistani cuisine should be celebrated, sadly and unfortunately it is not.” She said this in her talk at the Oxford University Press bookstore on Wednesday evening.
Her earliest memory of food is Khausey — a Burmese dish that was often prepared at her home. But she was surprised that girls in her school were unaware of it. Going by that same dictum, when she visited Kharadar with a group of friends belonging to Heritage Foundation, she was surprised to find that no one amongst the bunch knew what Malpuras were.
Ramzi stressed the need to “Celebrate plurality and diversity in our local cuisine, which lends colour to our culture.” This she said was “A cohesive talent that could identify Pakistan even abroad.” She gave an example, citing an incident in London when she visited a restaurant that stated Lahori Karhai in its menu chart and detailed it as “Indian and Pakistani cuisine”, not even assessing it that since it was from Lahore, it could only be a Pakistani dish. She said, “We don’t market our food like we should when in a foreign land, we need to make it a mission to do that, because I have often seen, when visiting Indian or Pakistani restaurants abroad, that there are more goras on the table than the natives of these neighboring countries. Why? Because, our food is of a great appeal them.”
In the northern areas of Pakistan, there is an influence of Chinese cuisine, hence locals rely on soup and noodles. However, river-side dwellers enjoy river-fish aplenty. With Karachi being a port city, she said, she couldn’t really come to terms with the idea of people not being interested in the sea-food; rather they are mostly meat-lovers. The tradition of dining on sea-food is now picking up in this city.
She said that people could try any recipe offered, or go to restaurants and eat a specific dish, but “It will be modified to a great extent and authentic flavor will only be found when you visit the place of origin.”
“In wedding times too, people opt for various dishes in the menu, from Nihari, to Chappli kebab to Malpuras, which shows that people have a tendency to enjoy food here in the city,” she added. There used to be a time when most ingredients were not easily available in the market, she said, but now times have changed.
“Pakistani food’s strength lies in the various spices we use. Also, many spices have health benefits,” she said, while rebuffing the myth that spices have a negative effect on the human body.
On a final note, she asked for families to at least allow a traditionally set menu one day of the week, so that the young ones do know the importance of their food, rather than snacking heavily on junk food.
Published in The Express Tribune, March 21st, 2014.
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