KARACHI: Day One of the two-day Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) 5 on Tuesday evening seemed to drag on for longer than the actual four hours, owing largely to unexciting collections.
The usual suspects got some of us to sit up in our seats and marvel at their skill and craftsmanship, but most collections were humdrum, with at least one that was a total eyesore. Besides the arrival of Labels’ shop-the-runway online, there were no international buyers present at the show, which meant that the designs should have at least appealed to onlookers on either side of the ramp. Having said that, the Lotus team and Fashion Pakistan Council deserve two thumbs up for pulling off a well-organised event — kudos to them!
Runway moments
Ahsan Nazir
Ahsan’s Global Remix used print with embroidered and embellished pieces to create a colourful and beautiful parade. Midriff-bearing embellished cholis and short shirts were paired with saris and loose pants in jazzy prints of fuchsia, aqua and orange. The combinations were feminine and funky, with the silver sequins working well against the pink clusters of embroidered flowers. Trendy shoulder bearing dresses also showed the blocking of print and embellishments in flowy silhouettes. The menswear included colourful waistcoats in psychedelic prints. Ahsan gets two thumbs up for presenting a cohesive and eye-catching range of outfits.
Ayesha Hasan
Ayesha Hasan’s collection Zilji inspired by Islamic Moroccan architecture comprised prints in beautiful autumn hues of burnt orange, pale green, rust and red. The calligraphic compositions and prints, however, seemed to be more of an ode to Sania Maskatiya, and elicited whispers of the same in the crowd. Nevertheless, the side swept, tousled braids and elegant maatha pattis added to the demure look Ayesha was going for. A short black coat full of maroori and vasli work in gold over a strapless printed jumpsuit in teal was breathtaking.
Aamna Aqeel
Aamna’s collection Finding Glory was indeed a glorious show of black and gold with some delicious leg action, reminiscent of Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Cropped black jackets with gold work embellishments were paired with either a long gold dress or black leather tights and gold accents. A pair of black tights ending in a funky black and white print with gold studs was a creative and interesting feature in the collection. Aamna confidently showed how black is never boring when paired with a chic slashed gold skirt, embellished hot pants or playsuit. We absolutely love the floor length black and gold coat with worked bodice that was cut off at the front, a little below the waist. Three cheers for Aamna — the best of day one!
Maheen Khan
You can always trust Maheen Khan to present a well-tailoured collection that leaves you amazed at how well she can use simple, unembellished fabric with sophistication. Her FPW5 collection titled Flight was a tribute to species of birds that face the threat of extinction. In navy, camel, silver and gold hues, Maheen used mostly chiffons and silks to make shirts varying in length between the waist and knee. The cuts echoed Maheen’s modern approach, with more fitted silhouettes and one-shoulder shirts over layered pants and voluminous skirts. The un-embellished silver and ivory sari modeled by Ayyan is our favourite for its classic Maheen Khan element of minimalism.
Zari Faisal
A beautiful pinky-orange hue, silver and gold sequins, floral prints on an ivory base and net coats dominated the ramp for this show. But there was nothing too luxurious about debut designer Zari Faisal’s Plush collection; the floral print and sheer coat-over-shirt combos were not innovative or well-stitched. But despite that, Zari’s first collection was cohesive, and the beautiful colour combos and gratifying juxtaposition of fabric leave us believing that with time and confidence, she can give us something that will make us sit up in our seats. While most designers stayed clear of the floor-skimming lengths, Zari preferred to keep them for her floral print flared shirt
Bani D
After raising expectations at FPW4 with a fantastic collection, Bani D’s Colour-Washed Layers collection this time was unimposing. Some short shirts and jackets over printed palazzos; printed shorts over loose-fitting pants and floor skimming kaftan broken by a belt were the highlights of the collection. A pair of mustard yellow pants with a print reserved only for the top half were interesting when paired with a matching, tucked in shirt.
….the rest
Aamir Baig
This designer’s ode to lines was safe, simple and unsurprising. The hemlines were high – with some dresses ending dangerously below the thigh, leaving many wondering how such outfits will fare with a Pakistani buyer. Aamir worked maroon, yellow, aqua and black and red stripes on a white canvas, with the menswear echoing Jean Paul Gaultier’s look for the sailor advert in 2002.
Faiza Saqlain
Faiza’s Marvi, inspired by Sindhi folktale, used the colours of Tharparker in an unimaginative fashion. The collection seemed inspired by FnkAsia’s collection for FPW4 last year, and brought nothing new with Sindhi mirror-worked bodices and patchwork coats. The patchwork accents on plainer outfits seemed out of place, but a voluminous shalwar modeled by Nadia Husain was interesting.
DnF
Designer duo Deepak and Fahad have evolved from their previous Keffiyeh collection. At FPW5, the young men showcased their collection titled Metalistic, inspired by the international trend of metal studs on jackets, coat lapels, pockets and shirt fronts. In murky and nude brown hues, DnF put together studded shirts and waistcoats for men, with dresses, jumpsuits and cropped jackets for the ladies. While it wasn’t a remarkable creative or well-stitched collection, it must be said that they managed to present clothes that are wearable and not too over-the-top, as is seen with menswear designers.
Mona Imran
Now this collection made many sit up in their seats — but more out of bewilderment than appreciation. Mona Imran’s Safari collection used animal prints in dresses, jumpsuits, capri pants, palazzos and jackets. The dresses were styled differently, with one Wilma Flinstone-inspired hemline with a plunging neckline revealing a risqué bikini top inside. A look at the black shirt and skirt combo with a square patch of a tiger face at the crotch will give you an idea of the jungle epidemic.
Orient
Orient’s Spring Summer 2013 collection was a routine lawn show on the ramp. The embroidered galas, borders and buttons on simple kurtas were nothing out of the ordinary. But the prints were attractive with one in jazzy black and white lines standing out. Are three-piece lawn suits supposed to be part of a fashion week showcasing prêt wear? We don’t think so – let’s keep them restricted to the billboards, shall we?
Emraan Rajput
The collection titled Denimology use denim and black embroidery with little imagination. The motifs were nothing out of the ordinary, with men’s jackets and short women’s kurtas having embroidered fronts. The look Emraan seemed to be going for was a safe, non-fussed play on denim.
Cat on a not-so-hot runway!
During the first show of FPW5, a scared looking stray cat managed to make its way into the hall, darted hurriedly past the first row and disappeared into the crowd.
Published in The Express Tribune, April 11th, 2013.
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