The excitement and energy at Expo Centre mounts up as Day 3 of Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week kicks in.
With HSY pumping the beats and team Lotus ushering everyone to their seats, Day 3 was exciting and fun, with some great collections.
Zonia Anwaar
The designer’s Baronial Kremlin collection was highly safe and slightly bland. She had used a wide range of colours – from corals to the on trend green with cowl backs. However, the designer needs to experiment more. With her second year showing at PSFW one would expect this young designer to let loose and experiment with cuts and styles. While there was movement and fluidity in the fabrics she had used, the collection bored the audience, as there wasn’t any variation.
Rizwan Beyg
This designer’s collection paid homage to the artisans of Pakistan with a fantastically fun collection. Even though truck art is overdone and over with, Rizwan Beyg’s collection pumped new life into truck art. Thigh-high boots with intricate truck art done stole the show. While the gypsy style tunics ranged from vibrant solid colours, the spunk was added by the shoes and handbags. Beyg really pushed his boundaries and created an entire range of handbags and shoes. From peep toe sandals to sky-high wedges — he had it all. It is tough to use multiple loud colours together and pair them with loud accessories and still make it all work. The truck art satchel would have to be one of the most on trend accessory on the ramp.
Being one of the only designers so far to have presented a menswear line also, Beyg used the same truck art theme on leather pants, belts, briefcases and shoes. Beyg’s collection set the bar very high for the first act and sadly his creativity could not be matched.
Nida Azwer
She presented her 1880s-inspired collection using floral and animal motifs. With silk being her primary medium, Nida Azwer presented prints incorporating floral and animal motifs. One can never go wrong with Azwer’s prints – especially the ones with a Parisian or French aesthetic touch to them, which were pretty. Azwer has been known for her screen prints and block prints, but it will be interesting to see her incorporate more elements in her collection.
While the prints were funky, the cuts were safe and wearable. Overall, the collection was pleasing to the eye.
Mohsin Ali
The Nokia Fluorescent by Mohsin Ali closed the first act of the evening, but it was hard to figure out what was happening on the ramp. While the designer worked with geometric prints in neon and fluorescent colours, he had also used geometry in his cuts. With the exception of one well structured, monochromatic geometric, off-shoulder dress, the rest of the collection made one dizzy with busy prints. It was hard to digest that this collection came from Ali, who is known for making things work.
What killed some of the outfits would have to be the oversized embellished flowers, either on the back or the front of the outfits.
Layla Chatoor
Layla Chatoor opened her show with some pieces that would be better suited for bridal week than prêt but she moved into some printed silks and embellished outfits. Some snake print slithered its way onto some of the outfits but sadly, it just didn’t work.
From embellished capes to silk dresses, Chatoor’s line needed more structure and cohesiveness. Better luck next time.
Sana Safinaz
The duo opened the second act with a bang! With their new store already launched in Karachi, they are every girl’s newest best friend; offering clothes which might just kill. SanaSafinaz’s collection made you want to jump up-and-down gleefully. It was by far, the best collection of the second act of the evening with no one even coming close to stealing their thunder. This resort chic collection had it all, from peek-a-boo shoulders to over-extended bell sleeves with no fuss, clean cut designs that were stylish not just on the ramp but even on the street.
Hues of lime green, rust with black-and-white, SanaSafinaz had a loud floral/tribal-esque aesthetic touch to their collection.
Adnan Pardesy
Adnan Pardesy’s collection was by far one of the worst of the evening. Pardesy is known for his cuts and pleats and somehow everything in this collection was a miss. The designer presented multiple versions of white gowns with metallic accents. His collection titled Ellipsis was heartbreaking.
It did not make you wait for more or even for it to be continued.
Karma
The Gatsby collection by Karma was a breath of fresh air. The ’1920s romance came alive on the ramp as Maheen Kardar pushed her limits and put out one of the best collections the design house has ever created. With the exception of four outfits that pulled the collection down, Karma’s collection was flawless, innovative and uber trendy. The monochromatic embellished pants and dresses were dramatic, en vogue and very Gatsby! From the embellished head gear to the encrusted cigarettes Karma could do no wrong on the ramp. She had not just taken an idea but also understood the philosophy of the era she was representing and as a result put out a collection that was sound and very well thought-out.
Chunky pearls and diamantes, Karma had played around with a new aesthetic which worked for the design house.
Published in The Express Tribune, April 30th, 2013.
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